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Hair fall: finding the actual cause

Hair fall is the second most common reason people come to see me, and the one where the most money goes on oils and shampoos that were never going to work. Almost all of it comes down to one distinction.

Illustration representing hair loss on the scalp

First, some reassurance about numbers. Shedding 50 to 100 hairs a day is entirely normal — each follicle cycles through growing, resting and shedding phases independently. Seeing hair on your pillow or in the bathroom is not by itself a problem.

The distinction that decides everything

Shedding or thinning?

Shedding (telogen effluvium): a lot of hair coming out all over the scalp, usually starting two to three months after a trigger — illness, fever, surgery, childbirth, crash dieting, severe stress. The hair density is still normal; you are just losing more at once. This recovers.

Thinning (pattern hair loss): gradual reduction in hair calibre and density in specific areas — a widening parting, a receding hairline, a thinning crown. Individual hairs get finer. This is progressive and needs ongoing treatment.

Both can happen at once, which is why people get confused. The practical test: part your hair in the middle and compare the width of the parting to a photo from two years ago. If the parting has widened, that is pattern loss, whatever else is also going on.

Causes worth investigating

In my practice in Kannur, these are what actually turn up on testing, and they turn up often:

Tests worth asking for

Complete blood count, serum ferritin (not just haemoglobin), TSH with free T4, vitamin D, vitamin B12. Add testosterone, DHEAS, LH/FSH and prolactin in women with irregular periods, acne or excess facial hair. A dermatologist should also examine your scalp directly and do a pull test — the scalp itself tells you a great deal that blood cannot.

Treatments with real evidence

Minoxidil

Topical minoxidil (2% or 5%) is the best-evidenced non-prescription treatment for pattern hair loss. Applied to the scalp, not the hair, once or twice daily. Three important things people are rarely told:

Oral treatments

Finasteride and dutasteride block DHT and are effective for male pattern loss; used off-label in some women, but never in pregnancy or in women who might conceive. Oral minoxidil at low dose is increasingly used under supervision. Spironolactone helps women with a hormonal pattern. All of these need a prescription and a proper discussion of side effects — please do not start them from an internet recommendation.

Procedures

PRP has moderate evidence as an adjunct — see the PRP guide for what it can and cannot do. Microneedling combined with minoxidil has reasonable supporting data. Hair transplant is the definitive option for established baldness, but it is surgery, and it works best when the remaining hair is medically stabilised first.

Correcting deficiencies

If ferritin, thyroid, vitamin D or B12 are abnormal, correcting them properly is essential — and often produces good recovery on its own in shedding-type loss. Note that supplements only help if you are actually deficient. Taking biotin without a deficiency does nothing for hair, and it interferes with thyroid and cardiac blood tests, which causes real diagnostic confusion.

What does not work

When to see a doctor promptly

Hair loss with a visibly red, scaly, painful or itchy scalp, or with smooth bald patches, or with scarring where the follicle openings have disappeared — these need urgent assessment. Scarring alopecias such as lichen planopilaris destroy follicles permanently, and treatment is about stopping progression, so time genuinely matters. Sudden patchy loss suggests alopecia areata, which is treatable.

Otherwise: if hair fall has continued beyond three months, or your parting is widening, get tested rather than working through more shampoos. Pattern loss responds far better when treated early, while there are still follicles to save.

Frequently asked questions

Fifty to a hundred hairs a day is normal, since follicles cycle independently. What matters is whether density is dropping — compare your parting width to a photo from a year or two ago.

Complete blood count, serum ferritin, TSH with free T4, vitamin D and vitamin B12. Ferritin matters especially — levels below 30 are linked to hair loss even when haemoglobin is normal. Women with irregular periods or acne should add hormonal tests.

Oil reduces breakage and improves manageability, which is genuinely useful, but it cannot reach the follicle to affect pattern loss or shedding. Heavy oiling with vigorous massage can worsen fall, and in humid weather it contributes to seborrhoeic dermatitis.

Four to six months for a fair assessment, with nothing visible before three. Expect a temporary increase in shedding in the first four to six weeks — that is the expected response, not a reaction. It works only while you continue using it.

No. Telogen effluvium typically starts two to three months after a fever, illness, surgery or childbirth and recovers over six to nine months once the trigger has passed. Correcting iron and thyroid problems speeds recovery.

Only if you are genuinely deficient, which is uncommon. Biotin also interferes with thyroid and cardiac blood tests, which can cause misleading results, so it should not be taken casually before investigations.

A note on medical advice. This article is general education, not a diagnosis or a prescription. Skin conditions look alike and behave differently from person to person — what helps one patient can worsen another. Nothing here replaces an in-person examination. If a problem is spreading, painful, bleeding, changing shape, or simply not improving, please see a qualified dermatologist. In an emergency, contact your nearest hospital.
Dr. Shakeel

Written & medically reviewed by

Dr. Shakeel

Consultant Dermatologist at Lumia Clinic, Kannur. Dr. Shakeel treats acne, pigmentation, hair loss and chronic skin disease, with a practice built on explaining the diagnosis before selling the treatment.

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